December 12, 2012

Skin tone charts for grey haired.


Hello everybody, I've been away for years I think! Now I'm ready to discuss such an important question as different skin tones in many sorts again!

Oh my God, I'm going grey! Is it awfully inglorious? Or is it trendy? Could grey hair be attractive and stylish? How to bring yourself to gracefully natural grey hair? How to match your skin tone to different shadows of grey hair? How to choose the right tone of clothes and accessories to your skin and grey hair? There are so many questions, so let's look at this matter in details with visual skin tone charts.  

There is no secret grey hairs appear even in youth, so grey hair can't be only the mature age sign in fact of genetic inheritance, global environmental influences and other matters. According to the recent famous fashion magazine Glamour more than 2500 persons poll 43%  of people that took part in it answered that they found grey haired women and men attractive. Only 4% of asked persons thought grey hair to be unattractive. The great power of public mind is on grey-haired people side.

Grey hair were in fashion in 18th century as we can see thanks to the paintings of famous art members like Thomas Gainsborough, Francois Boucher, and others. Duchess of Devonshire in her powdered silvering grey wig has a fresh complexioned skin tone with blue undertone like a garden rose. Grey hair were considered as a mark of high social status. Only quite well doing people could venture themselves the luxurious wigs in white, grey and lightly colored grey tones made of real human hairs. Moreover, those volume shaped grey hair wigs of 18th century should be generously powdered with oak powder or with starch. What a deepest relief  that we are not obliged to do something sophisticated this way!

 Grey hair is in fashion now: Karl Lagerfeld's and Calvin Klein's favorite supermodel Kristen McMenamy wears her naturally grey hair on the catwalks and says "You can get older and still be rock'n'roll". Even the style icon Kate Moss is going grey and she does it gracefully fashionable. Many of celebrities were driven by this trend: Pink, Kelly Osbourne, Nicole Kidman and Lady Gaga, of course.  

Let's imagine I'm finally encouraged enough to go gray. But would it match my complexion? I want my grey hair suits me very well, and I definitely do not want to look like just a person who've forget the way to stylist. Let's have a look at the charts by the example the celebrities such Jamie Lee Curtis, Helen Mirren, Maye Musk and Meryl Streep.

Superstar Jamie Lee Curtis has a medium skin tone with golden undertone. You can read about medium skin tones in my article about determining skin tones and undertones with charts. She's so lucky about her complexion! When she was a brown-haired person, she hadn't enough contrast of colors in her appearance. But recently Jamie Lee Curtis went grey haired, and we can see a striking change to impressive good-looking. The truth is in the science of colors: the warm tones are in contrast with cool tones. If you put warms and cools nearly, you can see them brighter and more vibrant then they are in itself. This quite clear principle is in use by the world artists and stylists. Hair tone is always opposite to skin tone or skin undertone in the matter of warmth.



I think Jamie Lee Curtis is much prettier with grey hair. Her skin looks vivid, and her expressive eyes are appreciable now. Her appearance gained some special dynamics of tones interaction. That's because of high contrast between very light grey hair and golden warm skin tone. We can see Jamie Lee in search of best matching tone of grey for her skin. In according to the science of tones, warm orange golden is opposite to blues. It doesn't mean Jamie Lee should have her hair in futuristic manga style. But the best matching tone of grey is cool silver for her. We can see in a chart that warm grey hair looks not very fresh on Jamie Lee Curtis.



Stay tuned, more articles with charts are coming soon!  




January 10, 2012

Determining dark skin tones and undertones


Dark skin tones from tan to bronze can be examined with the object to warmness or coolness and undertones the same way even the article “Determining your skintone and undertone”. Test your skin with silver and gold textile, and then try test with white towel. Remember about good diffused natural lighting, makeup and accessories absence to determine undertones and the “tone temperature” of your skin correctly enough. At first determine the main tone of your skin and then proceed to test your undertone.

It’s important to remember that skin tone and undertone aren’t the constant. They can change according to the health state, climate impact (sun rays, for example), even the age does matter. During the day the instability of undertone can show itself by the light surging from bluish to reddish hues within one color limit. Skin can look dull by the evening but quite fresh in the first half a day, so you’ll need some cosmetic features to correct not only one undertone.

An additional way to determine the undertone is to look at your wrist veins. Greenish veins are coming with yellow with hint of green undertone in case of dark skin tones. This cool yellow undertone often looks like olive-colored skin. Caramel, lightly brownish colored veins are coming with golden undertone. It is warm yellow with hint of red. Brownish and reddish veins are coming with red undertone in case of dark skin. Usually red undertone comes with darker skin tones. Blue undertone is quite rare and comes with deeply dark skin.

Let’s look at celebrity examples of skin color intensity from tan to bronze/ebony:

  • Tan. Pale among the dark skin colors. Olive, coffee, caramel hues. Has cool yellow with hint of green or warm yellow golden undertones. For example, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, Halle Berry.
  • Dark tan. More intensive color skin that looks quite warm, but rarely can be ashen. Undertones can be greenish yellow (that looks ashen) and golden to red, for example, Naomi Campbell, Chanel Iman, Sara Nuru.
  • Brown. Naturally beige or lightly sun-tanned skin with yellow to golden undertones. For example, India Arie, Tais Araujo, Lauryn Hill.
  • Bronze and ebony. Exotically rare for blue-black undertone. Usually comes with warm red undertone. Alek Wek, Viola Davis, Jeneil Williams for example.
Now we have the skin tones and undertones charts with celebrity examples for any occasion to compare. But remember celeb’s photos are usually from formal arrangements, so we can see only celebrities with make up features on their skin. It’s quite difficult to determine somebody’s natural color by photo. Naomi Campbell can look rather cooler in real life, but her make up artists correct her tone to warm hues, so we are to be satisfied with such unpretentious information as official photos.

January 7, 2012

Determining your skin tone and undertone

Don’t know what make up color to pick? The theory of color matching will help you to create a healthy harmonious make up suitable exactly for your skin tones, eye color and type of appearance. It's quite a basic knowledge in make up theory and practice! Some example charts with celebrity photos are applied to this article.

Remember, if your hair has been colored it would be slightly harder to determine your appearance type. Also, while determining you should not wear any make up on your face. It’s better to put on neutral colors clothes without accessory. The best lighting for real colors is a diffused day light.

At first you need to examine your skin tone: is it warm or cool? It’s quite easy; just try on some golden and silver textiles near your face. If silver fits you more, so you have cool skin tone. If golden better interacts with your skin, so your color harmony is in warm. Neutral skin tone owners usually have complex colors in their appearance, so they need to determine their undertone also. Do you think your skintone and undertone features look like Amanda Seyfried's? Just have a look on best and worst Amanda Seyfried's make-ups for her light skin tone with cool pink undertone to have your inspiration! It will help you finally to determine your skintone as cool or not.

The undertone color looks to shine through your skin. How to determine it? A good piece of something white, towel for example, will help you to test your skin undertone. Test it only with diffused day light because even small amount of artificial light, such a monitor or table lamp, will add hues to your real skin color. Bring the piece of something white close to your face. Does your skin look bluish, greenish or yellowish, or maybe pink? Blue and pink are cool undertones, yellow from peach to golden is about warm undertones, and people with green undertone usually have neutral skin tone.

Why does it important to determine your skin tone and undertone? It will help you to choose an ideal foundation, concealer, blush and powder, which will look absolutely natural on your face. Also the undertone is exactly the thing that helps match all make up perfectly by choosing the same undertone in eye shadows, lipsticks and lip glosses. You just need to choose foundation in according to your skin tone taking into account the undertone (blue, pink, yellow or green).
  
The last step would be determining the color intensity of your skin from light to light tan: 
  • Light. Palest skin, often with freckles. Doesn’t tan at all or tans hardly, always with sun burns.  Have blue, pink or green undertones. For example, Julianne Moore, Amanda Seyfried, Anne Hathaway. You can have a look at the comparison between Amanda Seyfried's light cool skin tone with pink undertone and Penelope Cruz's warm olive light tan skin tone
  • Fair. Pale skin that tans lightly and looks quite natural with small amount of bronzing. Fair skin tone has yellow, green or pink undertones, for example, Cate Blanchette, Haruka Ayase, Coco Rocha.
  • Medium. Naturally beige or lightly sun-tanned skin with yellow to golden undertones. For example, Takei Emi, Gisele Bundchen, Natalie Portman.
  • Light Tan. Often with a Mediterranean, Asian, Indian and Brazilian descent. Usually known as olive skin tone. Often seems unhealthy without sun because of greenesh undertone. Light tan skin tone goes with green, yellow and golden undertones. Aishwarya Rai, Penelope Cruz, Morena Baccarin for example.

December 15, 2011

The Dragon look make up for New Year celebration.

Many of the trend cosmetic companies have called our attention to gold and reds for make up trends for these winter holidays and parties. Somebody can find this boring, but I think gold and red colors are best to express the Asian luxury of the dragon’s imagery. The native Thailand and Chinese dragon decorations are covered with gilding and painted with bright intensive red. We can use the national exotic flavor in our make up to create a hot magnetic look with ethnic motives for your party. This look can be really easy to adapt to any kind of appearance, whatever brunettes or blondes you are. Persons of warm light tan olive skin tone with golden undertone have the best chance to match it. How to create this trendy make up?


  1. The Dragon’s face make up. You can use your regular foundation, but take care about its stability and long lasting for New Year night. For extremely long wear make up you can use the special base or fix, which are usually translucent or lightly pigmented to correct your complexion tone. You can use a little amount of bronzers to warm up your face edge near temples, chin and forehead. Then use blush with a shimmer for healthy glow effect. You need only a small amount of blush just to cheek apple, because your eyes will be rich enough. Shade your bronzer and blush carefully to make the borders hidden and invisible. If you have chosen the matte blush, so you’ll need the luminious powders and cosmetic features also known as highlighters and luminizers. Highlighters can be tinted or pearly white, but choose the finest and delicate textures without large-scale blinking spangles. Highlight slightly your eyelids, cheeks, skin above upper lip, and chin. The mystical shimmering Dragon’s face is done… I feel this make-up would be fabulous for Penelope Cruz type of appearance with light tan olive skintone and golden undertone.
  2. The Dragon’s eyes make up. First of all, it’s better to use the eyeshadow make up base so to get your look long lasting performance. For pale blondes and red haired persons the smoky eyes slightly elongated to temple would be fine, for inspiration you can have a look on the recent Indian-style PARIS-BOMBAY MÉTIERS D’ART collection of Chanel. Using black kajal and waterproof eye liner create the eye outline then shade it. Blend the onyx, dark-grey or black shadows with eyeliner lines on eyelid skin. The brushes would be more suitable for this work than the typical applicators with sponge. Shade well so to take the haze effect of your smoky eyes. Yes, only the tints of black, but how they accent any eye color! The doubtless high of classic smoky eyes is that this make up workaround conceals puffiness and dark circles. The neutral to olive skin tone persons would look outstanding with hints of gold on eyelids. You can use gold colored shadows or liners combining them with tints on black and brown. For more dramatic look you can use red eye shadows and red liquid liner, or combine two colors of well-defined lines, in gold and black, for example. Whatever eyes make up you’ll create finish your eyes with black mascara.
  3. The Dragon’s lips make up. If you’ve chosen smoky eyes, so use the pale golden nude tones of lipstick or lip gloss. In this case you don’t have to create an accurate defined lip outline. If your eye make up is in gold or even red with combining black you can use deeply red lipstick with the same undertone as your own skin has. Your sheer red lipstick can enclose the real gold dust in its formula. You can use the transparent invisible lip contour pencil to make the long lasting lips make up. Adding some glittering lip gloss will make your lips shine like Asian jewel, and lacquer lips glosses will bring the charm of varnished antiques of emperors. 

The mascara brushes types.

Every make up artist knows the brushes are that certain term of a well done make up. An easy rule is a “the brush takes aim”. What is your target? Maybe, your lashes require only the slightly intensive color on them. But frequently we want something more appreciable, even outstanding: the volume, the length, the curles, and all these properties we want to be combined with a neat eyelash separation. How to just exactly understand what mascara brush you need for your make up aims?


  1. The volume mascara brush. There are two kinds of eyelashes volume: the first is dramatically thick with superior separation towards the ends: and the second is about party-style volume with very thick lashes that nearly cast shadow. The first kind of eyelash volume looks more natural, and is suitable for dating, going to the theatre or restaurant. The second one is suitable for parties and clubbing. The intensity of the volume effect depends on amount of mascara layers: one layer is more than enough for light everyday looks, and two or even three layers are quite well for special occasions. How does the volume mascara brush appear? It has tight bristles, and the shorter the length of the bristles, the more intense volume we can achieve. The more the length of the bristles of mascara brush, the more separation of eyelashes it would bring us. The skewed brush shapes have the mission to achieve even the short lashes in the corner areas of your eyes.
  2. The long lash mascara brush. The life truth is that only with extending mascara you won’t achieve outstanding effect if your own lashes are really short. To extend lashes extremely you’ll need the mascaras with special formulas, such an additional transparent or white-colored pre-mascara feature with its own brush, or the special fibre in the mascara formulas. With these adds you can achieve even the false lashes effect, but remember, that it takes some efforts to get a professional artist’s skill in using them. So usual extending mascara is more reliable for daily and elegant use. The brush of the extending mascara has light space between bristles. The bristles can be quite thick, than the brush looks like comb.
  3. The curled lash mascara brush. Quite well curved lashes are visually longer and make eyes seem wide opened. Of course there are eyelash curlers, but we always want to make something easier and faster, so aren’t there any well working curling mascaras? One of the secrets of curling mascara is a special formula, but the right brush is a second secret. It should be curved or even round, so it would better make up the short lashes while modeling your eyelashes curl. These brushes usually give enough volume and separation and definition at once.